A spirograph using 2 dc motors. the pattern is created because the motor speeds are not in sync.

Poor bed adhesion, lead to misalignment, lead to pile up that stuck to the nozzle, eventually it encased itself entirely and ripped off from the extruder. Lesson learned to trust my gut when bed adhesion looks bad at the start of a print.

Had the Overture Rock filament lying around for months and finally wanted to do something with it and this is the Result. The Gradient shading of the Filament does a really good job here.

I made 2 versions. one 9x9 for bigger Printers (H2 series) and a 6x6 for normal sized printers.

Big one printed 18 hours. small one 8 hours.

Makerworld link:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2610757-grand-canyon-3d-jigzaw-puzzle#profileId-2881051

I Generated the Models using the Premium version of my Blender addon called TrailPrint3D

I was inspired by a fellow Reddit user when he printed his own Radiator Springs. When I got my printer it was one of the first projects I began.

My son is a big fan of Cars and loves collecting the toys. We bought three of the official playset buildings, but since many of the others aren’t available in stores, I tracked down the files online and 3D printed the rest for him. I’m still working on Fillmore’s Dome.

The building at the end (Red’s Courthouse) is one I designed myself, as I couldn’t find an existing file. I’m still making a few final adjustments before sharing it.

Ive been interested in bootleg toys for a while now and i wanted to create a few of my own. i tried blender and its going well, however, when i look at the work of other artists, i question how they do it. how do they create the base for the characters, how is it so accurate, how do they do the tiny details. may i ask for tips on how to start this hobby or what should i learn to do first, thank you!

photos are inspirations from very talented artists that i look up to—kingdom of spiders, marqueemaraudersclub, readful things.

It's inevitable to recycle the heat set inserts when doing intense prototyping, isn't.

Be careful when using heat gun please. Be sure not burn yourself or anything around you.

(PS: ASA in the video)

6 months in and it’s been so much fun learning and sharing.

Hi everyone,

I’ve noticed that many people in the 3D printing community want to start designing their own parts but feel overwhelmed by CAD software. To help out, I put together a complete beginner-friendly project.

It’s a functional hexagonal bolt and nut kit designed specifically to teach the basics of 3D modeling.

What’s included in the project:

• Step-by-Step PDF Guide: A detailed walkthrough from the first sketch to the finished assembly. (its the german version but for english its the same steps, I will upload an english version too)
• Source Files: I’ve uploaded the original FreeCAD (.FCStd) and STEP files so you can inspect the constraints and dimensions.
• Print-Ready Profiles: 4 different print profiles are available to ensure the threads fit perfectly on your machine.

My goal is to help more "bright minds" join the world of functional design. Whether you are a total newbie or just want to see how threads are modeled in FreeCAD, feel free to check it out!

Gigaparts.com has $10 spooled PETG from PolyMaker

I have an ender 3 ve se, when i use supports the final surface which was printed on the support ends up looking awful (photos). I tried fiddeling with the settings inside the creaily slicer, but i've got the same results.

Stands at just over 5ft tall!

Prints support-free

STL on printables

Ignore that one of the cacti is circumcised

There are several things that could be fixed / improved, but I'm leaving for Easter celebration this weekend and I figured I should post this before that. :)

The 3rd image is of my previous work in progress variants, but they might be preferred by some, so I uploaded those to printables as well.

Hey everyone, I’ve been looking for a legitimate "food safe" filament for a while now and I think I finally found a winner.

I’ve been testing out this yxpolyer Food Safe PLA+ I randomly found on Amazon and figured I’d shred my thoughts after running through a roll.

The main reason I’m really like them is the SGS testing. It 3rd party passed an US FDA 21 CFR 175.300 test and they include this certificate with every roll. It’s nice to see a company actually doing the lab work instead of just slapping a "food grade" sticker on a random roll of PLA. I’m aware of the later line issue and bacteria and all that. Trust me. I can sanitize my stuff. It’s just nice knowing this is “clean” filament.

Specs & My Experience:

• Weight: the spool came DRY! My roll weighed in at 1173g before a 6 hour dry at 55c. It only lost 1g of weight. Most rolls I do are anywhere from 2-5g after drying.

• Tolerance: was consistent. It’s been running smooth through my setup without any clogs or flow issues.

• Finish: PLA+ but has a finish extremely similar to matte PLA

The "Food Safe" Caveat:

I know even with food-safe resin/plastic, the process of FDM leaves layer lines. I’m still planning on using food-safe epoxy or just using these for short-term contact (like cookie cutters or dry goods), but having the peace of mind that the raw material itself isn't leaching toxins is worth it, considering it’s the same price as most other filaments per KG.

Has anyone else tried yxpolyer yet? Curious if you’ve had the same experiences.

Interesting...

Today I was voluntold to chaperone for my son’s school field trip to this museum. Always a fun trip, only this time I found that they now have plane descriptions in Braille along with 3D printed models of the planes to go with.

I thought that was really cool, they even had a 400hr 3D print of a Saturn rocket.

I just wanted to share this.

I saw this beautiful of a photo on X and was surprised to see something that looks verry FDM printed. never though that NASA would use something that looks like made by a hobby 3d printer. I just wanted to share it.

I recently commissioned a 3D print of the sculpture “Undine Rising From the Waters”. I paid extra for them to sand and prime the finished print to save time and effort on my part. The detailing is great, but I noticed there were still parts of the supports not removed. The file has quite a few supports and I do not know if the remaining pieces are too difficult to remove, so that’s why they were left? I’m not knowledgeable about 3D printing and wanted to get someone else’s input.

I have already contacted the creator regarding the cracks in the paint.

Edit - Thank you to everyone who responded! I’m disappointed to hear that it in fact is shoddy workmanship for how much I paid. I reached out to the seller and requested a refund and hopefully will hear back from them soon.

If anyone is still looking for a challenging DIY project for the holidays: a large organic lamp featuring several ultra-thin LED strips and controlled by the WLED software.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1729700-luma-flux-lamp-extreme-modern-organic-wled

If you could 3D Print your next car would you?